On my day off during my visit to Beijing I visited the Great Wall.  It really was the most amazing experience – completely breathtaking scenery and a challenging enough route to give me a real sense of accomplishment. I’m still smiling.

I’d undertaken some research about where to go. Most tours seem to go to a couple of the sections quite close to Beijing. Most of these have been significantly renovated, or rather rebuilt to the extent that they are far from authentic – in fact some people refer to these bits as “the Disney Wall”. Also, with car parks and gondolas making it so easy to get to these sections, they are packed with visitors – not ideal for my planned weekend visit.

So I found a tour that was more up my street – a guided viist to Jiankao –an area that is original, remote and quite rugged.

The hike totally exceeded my expectations – not least of all because of the feeling of accomplishment I felt at the end of the hike. My guide asked me on the way up if I preferred a flat section or a more up and down section. I figured that the up and down bits would be more interesting so off we set. When we got there it quickly became apparent that “up and down” translated from the original Chinese means “vertical ascents and descents”. So much of the time on the wall was spent literally scrambling up or down sections of the wall that had crumbled. It wasn’t *quite* rock climbing as the bricks and side walls made for great hand and footholds but it was certainly close. An bearing in mind that the wall was build essentially along a mountain ridge it was a long way down. It was only when I was clinging onto one of the trickier sections that I remembered the guide’s apparently conversational enquiry in the car whether I was scared of heights… Afterwards he told me that he has had to virtually winch some people up on a rope when they were paralysed with previously unencounterd vertigo. Yikes!

The fact that this section really was off the beaten track meant that the whole day we saw only approx a dozen people, all Chinese, and only near the paths from the nearby village. The rest of the time, we were pretty much alone with the wall and the spectacular scenery. The absence of people made it much easier to appreciate the sheer feat of engineering. Some sections that were partially crumbling allow you to see all the brickwork that went into building it. Every single rock had to be carried up a mountain. It’s just mindboggling.

The scenery was breathtaking. Ruggedly corrugated mountains stretch to the horizon on all sides, with the wall snaking along the mountain ridge. I felt like I was standing on the top of the world.  I know people say this is one of the wonders of the world – but it takes seeing it up close to appreciate the sheer audacity of building thousands of miles of wall across a seriously inhospitable landscape. I can’t help wondering how the intial orders went down. “Right lads, we’re going to build the biggest wall EVER to keep the Mongols out.” “But the mountains keep the Mongols out. “That right we’ll build it on top of the mountains.” You can only have respect for those folk. Now if only we could get them working on some much easier road projects closer to home…roads nearer to home.

Check out some more of the pictures here.

I’ve been in Beijing all week. I have been surprised to find that I really liked it (apart from the smog – OMG). It’s certainly an intriguing place – right in the middle of an extraordinary amount of change. Some random observations in no particular order:

–       the  hotel changed the carpet in the lifts every day to tell you what day of the week it was – helpful when friends and family are a whole day away.

–       Riding a motorcycle with Side Car around the Forbidden City at night – mad! More to come on this…

–       why are taxi drivers all such con artists? I might be foreign but I’m not buying the “ there’s lots of traffic and a longer way back”. Just put it on the meter and stop mucking around.

–       Wow the air quality is bad. Various organisations such as Greenpeace and the US embassy publish hourly airquality updates.

–       Chinese Personal space is not very large – I guess it can’t be. In the underground that makes for some close encounters (eek). It also extends to traffic, with pedestrians, bicycles and cars manouevering at speed between people and cars just inches from each other (scary).

–       Beijing has approx 4.5 MILLION cars. Most of them are less than three years old. Most of the drivers have held a licence for less than three years. That’s pretty darn scary if you think about it.

– the weirdest item of clothing I saw was crochet hot pants. Yes. Crochet hot pants.

–       The best meal I had was a hot box – a sort of Chinese fondue that’s integrated into the table. The box is filled with water/ stock and spices and once it is boiling you cook thin strips of meat and veg in it. Once that’s done you bung in the noodles and have noodle soup. Great!

–       The airport just seems to work. Who’d have thought!It’s now one of the top ten airports in the world – I can believe it. One weird thing however is that they have an extra bag check at the gate for international flights where they take any liquids off you. Annoying if like me you like to buy water for the flight as it’s hard to stay hydrated with the frequency of United glass refills…

I often drive through New Jersey (or Noo Joysey as the locals call it) as it is only twenty minutes from home. However if I am in or near there I will make a significant detour to avoid filling up with petrol. Why? Because all the petrol stations are “Full Service”. While that sounds fairly promising, it just means that they won’t let you operate the pumps yourself.

How does it work? You pull up next to the pump as usual. Then you sit there apparently invisible while the pump attendants lie in hiding. The only way you can get them to appear Mr Ben-like, is when you get out of the car and start messing with the pump/ paying for your petrol. At that point a usually bad tempered and dishevelled character appears like Mr Ben, transfers it a total of nine inches to the payment machine on the pump. They then generally need help getting the slightly fiddly petrol cap off before they set the pumps to dispense. One useful thing here in the US is a little prong on the pump handle that allows it to dispense until cut-off without you having to go to the trouble of holding the handle in. That’s presumably because, thanks to  the enormous gas-guzzling blancmange mobiles they drive here, holding that pump might get perilously close to exercise. Anyway, my car has a small tank (about 9 US gallons if you are interested) so it fills up pretty quickly. Which generally means I then have to sit there waiting for the chap to take it out again…

Now I think there’s an extra charge embedded in the price of petrol for all this value adding service. I wouldn’t mind QUITE so much if they actually did something useful, such as checking your oil or cleaning your windscreen like they used to do in some of Continental Europe. But they don’t.  The only small benefit is if it is really cold out, and you can sit in the warmth of the car. Mostly.